(W180): Dados técnicos de manutenção das lâmpadas de pisca

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(W180): Dados técnicos de manutenção das lâmpadas de pisca

Mensagem por AEP em Qua 26 Mar 2014, 18:50

Fonte: http://www.mbzponton.org/pax058/people/miller/blinkers.htm

Mercedes-Benz Ponton Blinker Repair
Jeff Miller / July 27, 2012

Problem Description / July 25, 2012

Before driving the steadfast 1957 Mercedes-Benz Type 190 Ponton sedan, a seasoned maintenance team always ensures the lights and blinkers are functional. This time, the left side blinkers were not working. Records indicated this problem also occurred on March 27, 2000, and May 31, 2005 — but the solution was not clearly documented. So, a photo (Figure 1.) and text (see below) were sent to the International Ponton Owners Group (IPOG)for ideas on a probable cause.
Figure 1. Early style chrome horn/blinker ring removed, with blinker switch revealed
For the third time since 2000, the left-side blinkers were not working on my 1957 190 sedan. The bulbs and fuses checked OK. My notes say I purchased two blinker relays (one in 2000 and another in 2005), but both times they did not fix the problem. I don't know why I bought the second one in 2005 except that I probably forgot about the time in 2000.

According to my notes, what fixed the problem in 2005 was slightly loosening the nut behind the steering wheel trademark cap (three pointed star). This time, that did not work. I discovered that if the nut is too tight, the horn blows continuously. I don't know why loosening the nut fixed the blinker problem last time, but it did. 

Reference Figure 1. On July 25, 2012, I removed the center trademark cap on the steering wheel, and removed the chrome horn and blinker ring (early style blinker actuator ring). What you see is normally hidden behind the chrome ring and center trademark cap. 

When the brown slider bar (switch actuator) was in the left position (as shown in Figure 1.) the front and rear left blinkers did not work. When the actuator was slid to the right-most position, the right-side blinkers worked fine (with the key in the on position). I also sprayed contact cleaner on the switch to no avail.

Henry Magno replied:

I'm not sure I have had this problem with the switch. Remove it with the screw above the slider at twelve o'clock and two more at 4 and 8. Then pull it out. You may have to feed the cable from below the steering box if there isn't enough slack. Then you can check the switch by jumping across the wire terminals. It will be obvious which wires go where when you look at the back side. Since you have right blinkers working, it's not the flasher unit. If it isn't the switch, you have a break in the harness. I'd suspect the wires in the column first. Check by finding the correct terminals at the junction block on the wheel arch and jumping the two relevant, the input wire to the left output. I don't remember the color code but I'm sure you have it. If that doesn't isolate it to the column, then, obviously you have a break somewhere else in the harness. I'm not sure where you look first in this case, so let's rule out switch and column first.

Update / Solution / 27-jul-2012
Figure 2. Broken insulation was shorting the power (left-side blinkers) to ground
Removed the three screws from the horn plate behind the trademark cap on the steering wheel (Figures 1 and 2.) and found 12 volts at the center blinker terminal and the horn terminal. Also found 12 volts at the right-side blinker switch terminal, but no power at the left-side terminal. The wire going to the left side terminal had some broken insulation, and must have been shorted to ground. I placed shrink-wrap around the wire and re-assembled everything. Then the blinker fuse blew (ceramic, white, 8A, position 2 from the top position of the fuse box). Once that was replaced, the blinkers were working again.

Thanks to all who responded with tips and encouragement (Mardy von Harten, Phil Langlois, et al.)

Created: July 27, 2012 / Jeff Miller
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